KITCHEN CABINETS
Every project deserves a fresh start. With a clean lint-free rag and the Amy Howard at Home© Clean Slate™ solution in hand, gently wipe away the dust, dirt and grime collected from years of use.
To ensure optimal performance, thoroughly shake your Amy Howard at Home© One Step Paint™ for at least 1-2 minutes before opening. Follow by stirring with a clean wooden stir stick until all ingredients are mixed to an even creamy texture.
Pro Tip:
The Amy Howard at Home One Step Paint can meet any of your color needs. For this project, we created a unique custom color for each cabinet section! Just make sure to plan ahead and mix enough of your custom color to cover your entire project.
- For the inside of the upper cabinets, we set aside a portion of the previous custom color and added two-parts Bauhaus Buff, thoroughly mixing until a smooth brand new color formed.
- For the top outer cabinets, we used our classic Ballet White, no customizing.
Pro Tip:
Kitchens cabinets are a great canvas for airless sprayers! Spraying will generally use an average of 30% more paint. Simply take this into account when deciding how much paint you will need and dilute according to manufacturer specifications.
- Using a clean Amy Howard at Home© Synthetic Brush, apply an even–not too thick–coat of your custom One Step Paint™ color to the entire section you have designated.
- Allow an average 30-45 minute drying time between each coat to prevent cracking.
- While one section is drying, apply your One Step color to the next section utilizing the same application techniques and a clean Amy Howard at Home synthetic brush.
- Repeat painting and drying process until desired coverage is obtained for each section.
- Protect all of your hard work in this high-traffic area by applying an even coat of the Amy Howard at Home Light Antique Wax.
Pro Tip:
If you are going to use one of your cabinets sections as a chalkboard canvas simply skip the waxing process.
- Load an Amy Howard at Home© china bristle brush with just enough Light Antique Wax™ wax to cover the tips of the bristles.
- Use the cardboard palette to offload excess wax from the brush.
- Apply the Light Antique Wax™ over the entire piece moving the brush across the surface in a “cross hatch” pattern.
- Allow the wax to come to “tack” for about 20 minutes.
- Using a clean T-shirt rag, buff your piece with a hit-drag motion just like you would a shoe. This buffing process brings out a beautiful patina shine.
If you have chosen to utilize a portion of your cabinet as a chalkboard, here is where you will pick up. - Season your unwaxed chalkboard canvas before use by shading the designated area with a piece of chalk laid sideways.
- Wipe lingering dust away with a lint free t-shirt rag, leaving a cloudy, semi chalk white base behind.
- Now that your cabinets have been waxed and your chalkboard surface has been seasoned, your kitchen is ready for use!
- Now you get to “Enjoy the Bragging Rights!”
ZINC COUNTERTOP
For our antique zinc counter tops, we always use 22 gauge galvanized sheet metal. Simply measure the top of your surface and add in an additional 1/16” buffer to ensure it doesn’t come out too short. Give the measurements to your local sheet metal fabricator and he will then cut to specifications. We always request for a 1” to 1.5” rolled edge, depending on the thickness of the surface, so that the sides will too be wrapped.
- Every project deserves a fresh start. Use Amy Howard at Home© Clean Slate™ solution and a lint-free rag to remove all dirt, grime and dust from your galvanized metal surface. Strap on thick protective rubber gloves before beginning.
- Pour desired amount of the Amy Howard at Home© Zinc Solution™ into a glass or disposable container.
Using a clean T-shirt rag, dip one side into the Zinc Solution™. Shake off dripping excess before applying, but do not squeeze.
Pro Tip:
You do not want the rag to be drowning in the solution, just enough to cover one side of your rags. If you find you have absorbed too much liquid, simply shake the rag out, but do not squeeze it.
- Lightly dab and push solution into the metal surface with wet rag. Aim for sporadic, yet full and even coverage.
- Oxidation process will become evident immediately. Your once silver surface should begin to turn black before your eyes.
- Continue with the dipping and application process until you see that the entirety of your piece has oxidized.
Pro Tip:
Some metal with finished seams will not react to oxidation process. Do not to worry, simply continue with rest of antiquing process.
- Before continuing onto the waxing process make sure that you allow the piece to cure for 24 hours. This will allow the finish to settle into the metal so that your piece does not turn black!
- Once the oxidation process in completed, a beautiful dead chalky finish of antique Parisian zinc should be left behind.
- Once the full 24 hours have passed, it’s time to seal your surface with the Amy Howard At Home® Clear Wax™. Using a clean Amy Howard At Home® Signature Flat or Round Brush™, apply an even layer of wax to the entire metal surface.
- Apply the Clear Wax™ over the entire piece moving the brush in a “cross hatch” pattern.
Pro Tip:
Make sure not to apply too much pressure with your brush when applying the clear wax. Want to make sure this pressure is light to ensure that you are not leaving brush marks in the finish, on the zinc top.
- Allow wax to come to tack for about 20 minutes.
- Using a clean T-shirt rag, buff your piece with a hit-drag motion just like you would a shoe. This buffing process brings out a beautiful patina shine as well as that authentic aged look.
- Now you get to “Enjoy the Bragging Rights!”
Pro Tip:
Once your counter is antiqued and sealed, allow you piece to cure before putting to use. We suggest a full 24 hours after your piece has been buffed.
Pro Tip:
To adhere your zinc countertop caps to your surface you can use a clear silicone or liquid nails. Follow product directions for dry and cure times. To ensure that your metal does not start to bow and adheres to the entire surface, you can place heavy objects on the top as your adhesive is drying. Make sure to put something in between your surface and the object to ensure that your counter finish is not affected.
LACQUER GLASS BACKSPLASH
Pro Tip:
Measure your wall to get the dimensions for your glass. This will act as a backsplash and will adhere directly to the wall. Once you have taken the necessary measurements have an ⅛” glass cut to size.
- Every project deserves a fresh start. With a clean lint-free rag and the Amy Howard at Home© Clean Slate™ solution in hand, gently wipe away the dust, dirt and grime from your glass.
- Spritz water droplets onto your glass by spraying water into the air and allowing the droplets to haphazardly fall onto the glass surface. If you see that an area that needs more droplet coverage, you can always lightly spray it directly. You should see a beautiful yet perfectly imperfect pattern form.
Pro Tip:
Best to work with your pieces of glass as one complete piece rather than work on each piece individually. This is especially important when you are working with a stencil to ensure that your stencil is matching up. If you are doing a kitchen where you feature four walls, work the glass in wall sections. (IE: For this kitchen we had three pieces of glass to create one large backsplash. All the glass was put together and worked on as though it was one large piece of glass. This allows the water droplets to look more organic and as a whole.
- It’s time to get crazy and cover that wet surface with paint! Keeping an 8-10″ distance spray Amy Howard at Home® High-Performance Furniture Lacquer™ in White Perfection over your glass using a swiping motion–moving from one side to the next and not lingering in one area too long. It’s important to keep your arm moving in a continual swipe so that you don’t create build up or uneven coverage.
- After about 3 – 5 minutes (THIS TIME WILL VARY DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH PAINT WAS APPLIED. THE MORE PAINT APPLIED THE LONGER THAT DRY TIME) have passed, grab your lint-free rag and begin to absorb all of those little droplets before the lacquer completely dries. You will begin to see a beautiful print forming with the negative space your water droplets created!
- Just as you start thinking your surface couldn’t get any cuter, it’s time to raise that level of connoisseurship! After that first layer of lacquer has completely cured, lay your favorite Amy Howard at Home® Adhesive Stencil over your glass. Using your same professional technique, cover you glass in an additional layer of lacquer, but this time use the Amy Howard at Home® High-Performance Furniture Lacquer™ in Silver Fox
- Allow just a few minutes to pass and then slowly and gently remove your stencil. A delicious yet subtly refined design should be left behind!
- (This is a really confusing part to explain so please feel free to call me to clarify)
Pro Tip:
For surfaces that are larger than the stencil itself you can cut up more than one stencil, match the design and create 1 large stencil. Also depending on the size of the backsplash it is likely that you are going to have to repeat the stencil and spray process horizontally. If this is the case, you can tape of and apply paper to protect the glass that is not being working on at that current time. When you go to remove the stencil, you will move it over, overlapping 1 element of the design to ensure that you are in line with pattern. Make sure to protect rest of the glass from overspray and repeat the silver fox spray process. Make sure to not spray over the area that you have already added paint to as that color will begin to appear darker.
- To finish the glass we topped off the back with a solid layer of Amy Howard at Home® High-Performance Furniture Lacquer™ in White Perfection. It allows the project glass to appear professional and “finished” on both sides.
** Suggested that you do two coats for complete coverage.
Pro Tip:
Because your backsplash is going to be adhered to the wall it is important to back your lacquer glass with the One Step Paint. Make sure to allow your lacquer glass to cure for a full 24 hours before applying to the wall.
- Use the Ballet White One Step to coat the back of your lacquer with One Step. **It is best if you can spray this on to ensure that no brush marks are seen through your glass. Allow this paint to dry 30 – 45 minutes before adhering to your surface.
- Now you get to “Enjoy the Bragging Rights!”
Pro Tip:
Pro Tip: To adhere your glass to your wall, we used a clear silicone and mirror mastic adhesive. Apply a small amount of each of the adhesives about an inch apart from each other, alternating. Do this all the way around the glass, about 1” from the edge. Also make sure to do some in the center to help with adhesion.Make sure to find a way to keep the glass in place while it is drying.
FLOOR CLOTH
- Cut floor cloth to size. **We like to use a Fredrix Floorcloth canvas. Because we are working with a new surface we do not need to clean out surface with clean slate but you do want to make sure that there is not dirt, or fuzz on your piece before applying your paint.
- Apply an even, ‘not too thick’ coat of One Step Paint™ Bauhaus Buff to the entire surface using an airless sprayer or a foam roller.
- Allow an average 30-45 minute drying time between each coat. Simply repeat painting and drying process until desired coverage is obtained.
Pro Tip:
For the stripes in this floor cloth we did use a custom color that we created. Equal parts Linen and Luxe Grey.
- Once your piece has been coated in Bauhaus Buff, tape off your floor cloth to create 6” stripes.
Pro Tip:
Use a small piece of tape to mark the stripes that you will be leaving in Bauhaus Buff and not painting. If you are going to be spraying, make sure to cover the Bauhaus Buff stripes with a brown kraft paper to protect from overspray.
- Apply an even, ‘not too thick’ coat of One Step Paint™ Custom Color to the stripes using an airless sprayer or a foam roller.
- Allow an average 30-45 minute drying time between each coat. Simply repeat painting and drying process until desired coverage is obtained.
- Once your second color has dried, remove the tape from your surface to expose your now fully stripped floor cloth.
- Using an airless sprayer or a foam roller, apply an even and consistent coat of the Amy Howard at Home Matte Sealer to the entire surface. This will add a protective seal to your floor cloth and make for easier cleanup and maintenance.
- Allow your matte sealer to dry for 30 – 45 minutes.
- Now you get to “Enjoy the Bragging Rights!”
